At the turn of the 20th century, New York City was a world financial capital and the headquarters of American publishing, with power and authority to spare. And as a hub of garment manufacturing, the city had know-how and infrastructure. But when it came to fashion, Vogue and Bazar (the "aa” came later) were still parroting Parisian style. New York had a way to go before it would become a world fashion capital recognized for its sartorial swagger. How this happened is a fascinating, fabulous tale that touches on many key cultural and political moments of modern American history.